Pierre-François Lubin, one of the greatest perfume makers in history, left an indelible mark on the art of perfumery. Born in 1774, his life spanned one of the most turbulent and exciting times of French history. Lubin was initiated to perfumery at the age of 10, under the apprenticeship of Tombarelli, a perfume master in Grasse. In 1790, he left Grasse for Paris to complete his training under Jean-Louis Fargeon, who was then still serving as the official perfumer to Queen Marie-Antoinette. Even during her imprisonment in the Tour du Temple, the subsidiary was finally created in New York.The next thirty years were the goldenage for Lubin in the US, until the GreatDepression in 1929. The Americansubsidiary, which had been outselling its head office in France, had to close upshop in 1930. Distribution in the US wastaken over by a sole agent still in NewYork City.Despite the tough economic climate, the company launched Nuit de Longchamp in 1937, a timeless perfume evoking the nightly splendor of a white flowered garden; Nuit de Longchamp became a particular favorite in America where its success lasted for several decades. By the end of the 1930’s, the perfume had become a global success and was especially treasured by the international upper classes. Nuit de Longchamp gave a boost to the then ailing company and helped it to recover.
Delphine Thierry, who composed this creation, imagined an amber note that is both spicy and luminous. The opposite therefore of the dark, mystical ambers that bring to mind the smoke of frankincense in ancient temples. Akkad amber opens with an aromatic citrus head note of mandarin and bergamot, enhanced by Clary sage. Clary sage, also known as “the sacred herb”, is renowned for its euphoric, harmonising properties. The heart unfolds in the rich, balmy, spicy notes of frankincense and styrax, evocative of the ancient east, cooled by elemi, a fresh, soothing herb, and intensified by cardamom. The base with its two ambers of plant and animal origin centres on the woody richness of patchouli, sweetened with a sensual v anilla.
THE QUEEN‘S SECRET GARDEN
A black jade bottle held the last remaining scents of a secret garden. The discovery of its formula, copied by an indiscreet apprentice, revealed its mysteries. It belonged to a queen in the Trianon rose gardens, far from the splendors of the Court, before the turmoil of history was unleashed. Entrusted to a noblewoman and very dear friend, it has come down to us through the ages to be reborn today. Galbanum, bergamot and cardamom provide a fresh prelude to the rose and jasmine heart notes, enhanced by a hint of incense and cinnamon. The amber base, anchored in exotic woods, Indian sandalwood and patchouli, is arrayed in vanilla and Tonka bean.
“A fresh spicy floriental chypre”
THE CONQUEST OF THE WEST
Bluff is at first a refreshing invigorating blend of citrus fruits, wood extracts and spices. It then reveals itself as an extremely elegant yet sensual unisex eau de parfum. The composition is inspired from the invigorating remedies supplied to the pioneers in the Wild West during the gold rush. Once developed by emigrant physicians, these
THE BARBER OF SEVILLE
Bold and seductive like the Figaro from Beaumarchais’ plays, Figaro by Lubin takes liberties with conventions much like the character that inspired it. An extremely original unisex fragrance, its construction is based on the daring opposition of vetiver and fig, which starts out green and ends up with gentle amber and woody base notes.
It comes as an e au de par fum natural spray in one size:
• 100 M L - 3,4 F L . O Z
Tester 43100T comes in its original gold & transparent bottle with its smoke grey Art Deco cap.
Sample minivap 43001 comes in a folder with texts in Arabic, English, French, German, Italian, Spanish and Russian languages.
In 1955, one movie star captivated the crowds. To the entire world she was the embodiment of American elegance and her mysterious charm even captured the heart of a Prince. To honor of her extraordinary beauty, Lubin created a perfume which marked the decade: An extremely chic fragrance, sparkling and fresh, evoking that year’s most fashionable cocktail, Gin Fizz.
The fragrance was first created in 1955 by celebrated perfumer Henri Giboulet as a tribute to Grace Kelly in the year she won an Oscar for her
role in The Country Girl. The name is inspired by a
cocktail that was in fashion at the time in the American bars of Paris, and was synonymous with joie de vivre and a fashionably festive lifestyle.
“ A fresh and flowery chypre with lemony top notes over an aldehyde and musky base.“
Idole De Lubin
An extraordinary iconic fragrance, like a woody liqueur rich in scorching spices, Idole de Lubin combines Makassar ebony, dried orange peels and Bourbon Rum. Its spices from Zanzibar warm up a refined leather note. Around this idol, the mute and
hieratic figure of Nubian divinity, bark is being burnt and resins grilled. Painted bodies get carried away dancing. Top notes: rum absolute, saffron, bitter orange peel and black cumin. Middle notes: doum palm, smoked ebony and sugar cane. Base
notes: leather and red sandalwood.
Grisette: She slips through the crowded streets on nimble
feet with her head held high, a slim, fleeting figure that
is the very image of Bohemian Paris. With her rosy cheeks
and innocent gaze, she is hurrying to meet her lover,
but Grisette is already thinking of another, dreaming
wistfully of a new romance. Their first kiss beneath that
awning sealed a promise truer than any other vow.
Citrus notes of grapefruit and bergamot give way
to a simple bouquet of Moroccan and Bulgarian roses.
Discreet heart notes of orris oil are cloaked in incense
and hints of cedar wood with touches of musk and amber
melt into the scent of Madagascan vanilla absolute.
That’s how the elderly owner of the Lubin Perfume House, Monsieur Paul Prot, described the elephant-shaped perfume bottle that had appeared on his desk. It had been designed for a princess
who was believed to be Indian, and so Lubin perfumers had consulted the writings of the famous Indian poet Valmiki. In his work, Valmiki paid homage to Woman by comparing her to the animal believed to be the noblest of all — the elephant. This seemed altogether odd to a well-mannered Frenchman in the early Roaring Twenties. But as for Kismet, the Eastern princess for whom this new perfume was intended, well, she liked it.
It opens with a sweet, tart blend of Isabella grape and bergamot, spiced up with elemi and artemisia. At its heart is Bulgarian rose, mingled with raspberry liqueur and Sichuan pepper, which gives way to base notes of precious wood enriched with amber, frankincense, and a hint of dark chocolate.
Upper Ten is the fragrance of the
corridors of power. The aroma
is like entering a New York or
Chicago Gentlemen’s Club in
1880. Cedar, sandalwood and
fine leather with an added floral
touch of geranium make up the
main accord of this manly tribute
to the life force of these American
pioneers. Cardamom quickens
its woody note while smooth
cinnamon invigorates the mix. The
amber, musky base brings more
potency and depth, conferring a
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